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Check Out Our I have been adding a great collection of reprinted articles and ads on men's fashion from my collection of vintage magazines. Hope these will help you better acquaint yourself with the styles of the past.
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Abrasion Resistance: Degree to which fabric can stand wear, friction. Factory tested by abrasion machine.Acetate Rayon: Rayon filaments by compound of coagulated cellulose and acetic acid. Acid Dye: Type of dye used on animal fibers; low holding color if fabric is washed. Acrilan: A synthetic fiber. extremely lightweight, non-cellulosic, used in blends with cotton or wool fibers. Acrylic: Descriptive of fiber derived from gas and air - pertaining to an unsaturated acid obtained from acrolein by oxidation. Admiralty Cloth: Synonym for melton cloth used for Navy Uniforms. Air Conditioning: chemical process sealing short fibers into yarn. Airplane Cloth: Sturdy cotton fabric, square woven from combed, ply yarns for balanced strength; shirtings, sportswear. Alligator: Skin of water reptile with square, boxlike markings; standard leather goods. Alpaca: Close-textured fabric from long hair of Alpaca sheep. Originally cotton cloth with alpaca filling. now woven alone or with wool, mohair, rayon or cotton. Used in suits, coats, sportswear. In pile form for lining and knitted into sweaters. Alpargata: sandal of rope of hemp; features woven sole shaped to footprint to which straps attach. Angola Yarn: Spun on woolen principle, Made of 89 per cent wool and 2 per cent cotton. Available in overcoating of low-textured twill weave. Angora: Fiber from Angora goat manufactured in combination with other fibers into mohair. Aniline Dye: Generally applied to any synthetic organic dye. Antelope: From skin of antelope, fine , soft, velvety texture, generally suede-finished; shoes, belts, leather goods. Antique Finish: For leather or shoes to simulate"weathered" look, commonly applied as oil, wax, or stain. Apron: Wide end of necktie. Aralac: A synthetic fiber derived from casein in milk. Argyle: Multicolored diamond pattern, usually in wool, originally knitted in England on hand frames, now made in America on machines; socks, sweaters, ties. Ascot: Double-knot tie with ends folded over and held in place with stickpin; formal day wear. Astrakhan Cloth: A term sometimes applied to a heavy deep pile fabric with curled loops that resemble caracul. Real astrakhan is a grade of caracul lambskin.
Baku: Fine, lightweight, dull-finished fiber of buri palm from Ceylon, Malabar, straw hats. Balbriggan: Lightweight unbleached, knitted yarn or cotton, wool or rayon for sock, underwear, sweaters, pajamas. Balibuntal: Fine, lightweight, glossy straw fibers, imported from Siam for hats. Balloon Cloth: Fine closely woven plain-weave cotton similar to airplane cloth but of finer weave. Used for shirtings, sportswear. Balloon Toe: High, full rounded shoe tip. Balmacaan: Loose fitting topcoat or overcoat with short, military collar, raglan sleeves, front closure buttoning under collar. Bandanna: Bright-colored square of cotton, silk; used as handkerchief, scarf. Bangkok: Thin, smooth fiber used in open-weave straw hats. Bannockburn: A type of all-wool tweed suiting made of double-twist yarns. Bar-Shaped Tie: Narrow four-in-hand necktie, with apron of even width. Barathea: (1) Pebble-weave fabric in silk, rayon or cotton combination; for neckwear, cummerbunds, trim on evening wear (2) Same fabric in worsted used for evening clothes. Bareface Fabric: Term generally applied to any cloth or fabric entirely without nap. Barrel Cuff: Single attached shirt cuff on shirt, unstarched with buttonhole closure. Basic Dye: Used on wool, silk and mordanted cotton; poor color resistance. Basket Weave: Plain fabric with warp and filling threads woven together to produce plaited effect; shirtings, sportswear. Batik: Originally process in which parts of fabric are coated with wax and only uncovered area takes dye; now imitated in machine printing. Batiste: Sheer cotton or spun-rayon fabric woven of combed yarns with mercerized finish on cotton; for shirts, shorts Batting: Carded cotton or wool in sheets and rolls, used for outerwear interlining and padding. Battle Jacket: Waist-length, fly-front, single-chested jacket used by Army, World War II; adapted to sportswear. Batwing: Synonym for butterfly bow tie. Beaver: Fur fiber, shiny, smooth, silk like texture; used extensively in felt hat manufacture. Beaver Cloth: Heavy, double-woven, smooth-faced woolen overcoating; soft, very long nap. Bedford Cord: Strong, rib-weave fabric with raised lengthwise cords running in warp direction. In all wool, silk, cotton, rayon or combination fibers; mostly sports clothing. Bellows Tongue: Broad folding tongue stitched to shoe quarter on either side to prevent water penetration; sport, work shoes. Bemberg Rayon: Trade name for a reverse crepe made of Bemberg rayon yards.
Bengaline: Heavier-than-faille fabric featuring fine weave and filling cords. In silk, wool, rayon warp with softly spun worsted or cotton filling. Used as trim for men's evening wear, robes. Beret: Brimless, unvisored, tam-effect cap of felt or fabric. Bird's-Eye: Diamond weave on pique' cotton fabric for evening wear accessories. Blade: Extra fullness at jacket shoulder blade; originally designed by English tailors. Blazer: Lightweight sports jacket, plain or striped flannel, linen,cotton. Metal buttons. Bleaching: Process for removal of impurities in fabrics by exposure to sun or chemical action to obtain clear whites for even dying, printing. Blend: Term used to describe yarn obtained when two or more fibers are combined in spinning process. Block Printing: Hand process of printing fabrics with design carved on wooden blocks. Blucher: Open-throat laced shoe. Body(of fabric); Solid, compact or firm feel of fabric. Used in testing, determining quality. Book Linen: Firm, sized linen, used as stiffening for collars and belts. Boucle' Yarn: Wool, rayon, silk, linen or cotton yarn with loops that give fabric rough appearance. Boutonniere: flower of cluster of flowers worn in left lapel of jacket, may be natural or artificial. Box coat: Loose-fitting topcoat, overcoat, jacket, set-in sleeve, usually single-chested, button-through of fly front. Boxford Collar: widespread, button-down shirt collar with stitching set black well from edge. Bow Tie: Type of necktie tied with two looped ends and two straight ends. Bowler: Stiff-brimmed hard, rounded-crow hat. (Synonym for derby), black, gray, brown. Braces: Synonym for suspenders. Bradford Spinning: English method of spinning wool into worsted yarn The wool is thoroughly oiled before it is combed, producing a smooth, lustrous yarn. Braid: Narrow ribbon or fabric strip used for trimming, binding or other ornamentation. Used on side seams of dress trousers, also robes, hats. Brilliantine: Plain- or twill-weave fabric; cotton warp, worsted or mohair fillings; linings. Brims Up: Soft felt or straw hat with medium brim turned up all around. British Warm: Short, double-chested topcoat, overcoat, flared from waist to bottom, usually of fleece fabric;originally military. Broadcloth: Tight, plain-woven lustrous cotton or rayon cloth with crosswise rib, for shirts, sportswear. Also identified with smooth woolen fabric with napped face and twill back. Brocade: Rich jacquard-woven fabric with all-over interwoven design of raised figures of flowers. From French word, meaning to ornament. Brogue: Heavy oxford shoe with large perforated design, usually wing tip. Brushing: Finished process in which circular brushes raise nap on knitted or woven fabric. Buckram: Stiff-finish cotton fabric for interlining garments, shoes, leather goods. Buckskin: Velvet-finish leather derived from deer and elk, buffed; gloves, shoes,etc. Buffalo Leather: From domesticated land and water buffalo; rough grain, substitute for cattle hides in shoes, luggage leathers. Busheling: clothing alteration.
Butterfly tie: Necktie cut with flared ends, narrow knot and neckband. Button-Down Collar: Shirt-collar points fastened to shirt with button and buttonholes. Button Glove: Short -length glove with button closure at wrist. Button-Through: Closure on jacket or coat with buttonholes cut through entire nap of fabric.
Cable Stitch: Overlapping knit stitch, machine or hand, simulating cable; socks, sweatersCabretta Leather: From Brazilian sheepskin; smooth, tight grained; gloves, shoes. Calendering: Finishing process, mechanical. Gives hard, smooth, glossy, embossed designs to cloth. Calfskin: Skin of a calf, soft, durable: gloves, shoes, all leather goods. Calico: An old term for a plain-woven printed cotton cloth. Cambric: Closely woven cotton fabric calendered on right side with slight gloss, usually white: shirts, underwear, handkerchiefs; originally linen. Camel Hair: soft, wool-like texture, varies from light tan to brownish black. Used alone or combined with wool; coats, suits, sweaters, sportswear. Canvas: Cotton or linen fabric with an even, heavy weave. Cap: Fabric head covering with tam top of one- or eight-piece construction with visor. Capeskin: tight, close-grain leather from haired sheep; gloves, leather goods. Cardigan: Collarless sweater with or without sleeves, button- through. Carding: Manufacturing term for machine blending and mixing of wool stocks to prepare for spinning, Remove impurities, separates fibers into continuous untwisted strands. Carpincho: Skin obtained from water rodent, similar to pigskin elastic, soft; fine gloves, leather goods. Carroting: brushing process applied to furs, utilizing solution of mercury and nitric acid. Enables matting or felting of fibers in subsequent operations. Term particularly applied to hat making. Casein: Fibers produced from skim milk, resembles wool. Blended with wool, mohair, cotton or rayon to weave or knit into fabric used in clothing. Combined with rabbit hair for felt hat bodies. Used without blending for interlining. Cashmere: Fabric made of hair of Cashmere goats from the Himalaya region of India, in twill and herringbone weaves; soft finish; used in all types of men's clothing, sportswear. Cassimere; Woolen suiting in twill weave which shows prominently due to clear finish. Castor Beaver: Heavy-milled, faced finish, all-wool cloth, lighter in weight than ordinary beaver; used for overcoats. Cavalry Twill: Sturdy-weave fabric with pronounced raised diagonal cord of wool, cotton, spun rayon, worsted; military uniforms, sportswear. Synonym for tricotine. Celanese: Trade-mark for textile and other products of Celanese Corporation. Cellulose: Vegetable substance, refined; natural fiber used in rayon manufacture. Challis: Lightweight, fie-spun, closely woven worsted fabric in spun rayon or spun rayon and wool blends; may be dyed of printed; neckwear, pajamas. Chambray: Fabric woven with colored warp and white filling, giving mottled colored, in cotton or spun rayon with small plan-weave effect; shirts, sportswear, pajamas. Chamois: Sheep or lambskin with grain removed; velvet finish, supple, porous; creamy yellow color; gloves, linings. Chamois Cloth: Napped, sheared and dyed cotton fabric simulating chamois leather; gloves, sportswear. Charvet: Revers rep fabric with double-ridge effect. Originally called Regence, but name is now associated with firm of Charvet et Fils; neckwear, handkerchiefs, mufflers. Chesterfield: Beltless, semifitted, single- or double-chested overcoat for town wear, may have velvet collar. Cheviot: Coarse, rough-napped fabric, originally made of Cheviot sheep wool. Now made of curly worsted, woolen yarns or spun rayon ad wool blends. In twill and herringbone weaves; suits, topcoats, sportswear. Chevron Weave: Broken twill weave with zigzag effect produced by alternation direction of the twill; similiar to heringbone; suits, topcoats. Chinchilla Cloth: Twill-weave fabric, either pure wool or cotton and wool, with napped surface of tufts or nubs. Double-faced with woven plaid or knitted back; outer coats. Chino Cloth: Term used to designate a particular type of all-cotton twill, used in military uniforms. Chlorinated Wool: Chemically treated woolens to decrease shrinkage and increase acceptability to dye. Chukka: Ankle-high boot with two eyelets; suede osmooth lather, rubber or leather soles. Circular Knit: Hand- or machine-knit stitch producing tubular fabric for socks, underwear, sportswear, neckwear. Clear-Face or Finished Worsted: Fabric of tightly twisted worsted yarns. Closely sheared and scoured to show weave; smooth surface; suitings. Clocks: Embroidered or other vertical design decorating each side of sock. Club Bow Tie: Straight-cut tie for evening wear, generous center knot; white when worn with tailcoat, black a midnight blue with dinner jacket. Coconut Straw: Palm-frond fiber plaited into braid effect for straw hats. Collar(shoe): Narrow leather strip stitched around top of shoe for ornamental effect. Collar-Attached Shirt: Standard shirt with fused, soft orstandard collar attatched to neckband. Collar Rise: Height of neckband at back on collar-attached shirt. Calloar Stand: Height of neckband at front on collar-attached shirt. Color Co-ordination: (1) Merchandising and promotion of harmonizing colors in different departments carryig merchandise for entire ensemble. (2) Fashion effect. Combing: Process whcih produces even, compact, finer, smoother yarn by eliminating shorter fibers and arranging yarn in parallel lines. Advanced form of carding. Command Collar: Widespread attatched shirt collar with stitching half-inch from edge. Continuous Filament: Synthetic and regenerated fibers manufactured in continous form- as distinguished from all natural fibers except silk. Copper Etching: Advertising production term. Etched plate on copper as distinguished from late of zinc. Used mainly where fine linework is involved, also where large number of electrotypes are to be made from original plate. Copper Halftones: Fine-screen halftones used for finest reproduction in advertizing or printing on enamel-coated paper, as distinguished from zinc halftones of coarser grain. Cord: (1) Rib-surface fabric. (2) Product formed by twisting two or more ply yarns together. Cordovan: Leather from shell of horse butts; non-porous, long-wearing, with waxy finish; shoes, leather accessories. Corduroy: Cotton, rayon, cut-pile fabric woven with wide of narrow wale formed by using extra filling; foundation of either plain or twill weave; sportswear, boy's wear. Corkscrew: Worsted suiting of twisted yarns woven spirally concealing inside fillings; clear finish; prominent weave; herringbones, twills, stripes. Cotton: Soft fiber from seed pod of cotton plant. Spun into yarn and thread for knittin, weaving; bulk of word crop is from U.S.A. Count (in yarn): Size or weight of yarn. (In cloth) number of warp and weft yarns per inch in woven cloth. Counter: Stiffening at heel to keep back of shoe in shape. Covert: Woolen fabric closely woven with two yarns of different colors in warp and single color in filling giving mottled appearance; twill weave, in solid colors or patterns; topcoats, sportswear, suits; available in spun rayon, spun rayon and wool. Crash: Coarse fabric with rough irregular surface obtained by weaving thick uneven cotton, linen or spun-rayon yarns. Smother-weave woolen used for men's suiting, sportswear. Cravenette: Trade name for water-repelling treatment applied to textile fabrics and garments. Crepe: Crinkly-surfaced fabric of silk, rayon of blends. Alternate right- and left-hand twisted yarns are used in filling; neckwear, robes. Crepe Rubber: Natural or synthetic rubber used in crinkled sheets' soles and heels for sport, semisport shoes. Creslan: Trade name for synthetic fabric made by American Cyanamid Company Cress-faced: Term sometimes applied to woolen fabric having slight nap. Crew-Neck: Collarless opening which follows contour of neck on beach, basque or pull-over shirts, sweater, underwear. Crimp: (1) Natural Waviness found in wool fiber, caused by compactness
of weave. More crimp denotes finer wool quality. Crinoline: Stiff fabric used as foundation to support edge of hems and is interlining. Crochet: Knitted fabric, formerly handmade with crochet hook. Now duplicated by machine with hooked needles. From the French word meaning "to hook"; neckwear, sweaters, sportswear .
Dacron: DuPont's trade name for its polyester fiber. Used in all types of men' apparel, either in worsted-like fiber, or softer for knitted wear.
Elastique: Worsted suiting with steep double twill; uniforms, sportswear.Elk Leather: Cattlehide leather of special tannage and finish; rugged appearance, used in sports shoes. End-And-End: Weave with alternate warp yarns of white and color, forming fine check. Used in cotton chambray, broadcloths, oxfords for shirts and pajamas, unerwear, sportswear. Ensemble: Entire costume or items of apparel worn for an occasion or use and related in color, fabric and fashion rightness. English Drape: Name commonly applied to men's jackets or outer coats which have extra fullness across chest to form flat wrinkles and similar fullness across shoulder blades; single- or double-chested Espadrille: Rope-soled beach and sports sandal with canvas uppers; originated by Spanish, French dock hands.
Fabric: Generic textile term meaning cloth, material, goods, etc. May be felt, woven, knitted or crocheted. Face Cloth: All fabrics which feature separate warp or filling on back of goods. Faille: Soft, slightly shiny, silk, rayon or cotton fabric in rib weave with flat crossgrain rib or cord made by using heavier yarns in filling than in warp; neckwear, lapels on evening clothes and other trimmings. Fashion: Prevailing design, color and line in apparel and accessories in conventional usage. Felt: Thick, firmly packed material made of wool, hair, fur or combination of matted fibers, pressed with moisture and heat; hats, sportswear trim, slippers. Fiber: Smallest unit forming basic substance in manufacture of all fabrics; animal, vegetable or man-made. Filament Rayon: Continuous fiber of rayon made by viscose, acetate or cuprammonium process. Filling: (1) Yarn running crosswise in a woven fabric at right angles to warp yarn (2) Tern for sizing substances used to give fabric body, weight. Finishing: General tern covering treatment of fabric for various surface effects or to improve, extend usefulness. Flannel: Loosely woven, plaid or twill-weave fabric of woolen or worsted, spun rayon and wool blends. Unfinished or soft-napped surface; solid colors, stripes, checks, plaids. Wide varieties of weight and texture; suits, sportswear. Flat Knit: Simple knit structure with vertical rows on face and crosswise bars on back. Flax: Flax plant fiber. Spun into linen yarns, later woven into fabrics; all types of clothing, furnishings. Fly Front: Placket concealing button closure on coat, jackets, trousers. Fold Collar: Double shirt collar of turn-down style, attached or separate Fortrel: Brand name of polyester fiber made by Celanese Corporation of America. Forward Collar: Low-front shirt collar with stitching set back half-inch from edge. Foulard: (1) Twill weave, lightweight printed silk of rayon fabric,neckwear, robes, mufflers, handkerchiefs. (2) Applies to certain types of small patterns printed or woven lightweight fabric. Four-In-Hand: Type of necktie, knot, apron and end folding vertically. French Cuff: Double, turned-back cuff attached to shirt, worn with links, soft or starched. French-Back Serge: Double-surfaced fabric with twill weave on face, satin weave on back. Used in suits. Friar's Cloth: A coarse drapery fabric in a basket weave. A trade name for monk's cloth, also called bishop's cloth. Frieze: Heavy woolen overcoating with napped face; features double cloth with twill construction available in spun rayon and wool combination. Frog: Stitched-on braid forming looped design at buttonholes used on lounging pajamas and nightwear. Fulling: A process in the finishing of woolen cloth. The cloth is dampened, beaten under heat, obscuring the weave. Full-fashioned: Flat-knit process, features adding and reducing stitches for shaping to conform to body lines when seamed; used in hose, sweaters, underwear. Fused Collar: Processed collar with specially prepared interlining laminated to outer layers of shirting to minimize wilting and wrinkling.
Gabardine: Tightly woven worsted cotton, rayon or blended fabric showing steep twill. May be made of single- or two-plh yars. In solig colors; all types of clothing, sportswear. Galatea: Sturdy, printed twill cotton fabric used in beachwear and sports clothing.Gauge: Standard of measure of thickness or fineness of knitted fabric, dependent upon number of needles in given unit of space. Gauntlet: Extra-length glove with wrist portion slanting out to a flare. Gillie: Tongueless oxford laced across instep and tied around ankle. Gingham: Plain-weave cotton fabric in checks, stripes, or plaids; sportswear. Glen Plaid: See Glen Urquhart. Glen Urquhart: Scottish clan plaid with overplaid in another shade or color formed by groups of lines crossing at right angles to form boxlike design; design in tweeds and other fabrics used for suitings, sportswear. Goatskin: Pebble-grain leather made from goat hide; sports gloves, leather goods. Gore Shoe: House-type slipper or shoe with elasticized sides or front. Grained Leather: Finished by boarding, embossing or printing to produce special surface pattern. Grandrelle: Ply yarn spun of strands of different colors into shirting or pajama fabrics to produce heather effect in stripe and all-over pattern. Granite Cloth: hard-finished woolen fabric of twisted yarn giving rough, pebbled surface; suitings, sportswear. Grass Cloth: Loosely woven fabric made in China of grass, ramie or vegetable fibers. Used in natural brown color, bleached or dyed, for sportswear. Grenadine: Gauzelike neckwear fabric in which threads cross each other from side to side. Grenfell Cloth: Closely woven cloth originally used on the Grenfell Mission in Labrador. Gray or Greige Goods: General term applied to all fabric prior to bleaching, dyeing or finishing. Grosgrain: Closely woven, corded fabric of silk or rayon sometimes with cotton filling; neckwear, trimming on evening clothes, accessories. Gun Club Check: Even check pattern with alternating rows of checks in different colors. Design most frequently seen in worsted, flannel, tweeds. Gusset: Insert of fabric at seams of garments to prevent ripping and to allow extra freedom of action. Usually triangular in shape. Guard's Coat: Long, dark-colored overcoat with half belt, inverted center pleat and deep folds at sides in back.
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